A few days in Buenos Aires

When I first arrived to Montevideo, it felt like a big city. So much more compact than Miami, but not the scale of a place like New York. With Montevideo, one quickly becomes aware of how people seem to disappear with the setting sun. Even during the day, there are moments when off 18 de Julio, the main avenue, when you can feel totally isolated. This was not Buenos Aires...I loved being a tourist for a few days, something I dread looking like in Montevideo. I not once felt threatened, and enjoyed the international feel of the city. It's strange for me, but I really loved that there were people everywhere, not just on the main streets. More than anything, it was nice to leave work behind for a week, and really feel like I was taking a vacation.

I left on Monday, March 5. Of course it was the first time I was travelling there, so I stressed about taking a bus to Colonia, and then the ferry to Argentina. There really aren't great directions as to what will happen or how to proceed through the process. But all was well, though the ferry was a little crazy with the storm over the Rio de la Plata, and I'm pretty sure there were moments when a boat that's not supposed to be airborn was totally off the water.

Not much happened my first night, except I was introduced to Argentine pizza...AMAZING. The name of the place was "Kentucky," a chain (but great), and it had tons of photos from the state, but was especially fond of Louisville and the Kentucky Derby (their logo features a racing horse). Day 2 was pretty much me familiarizing myself with the banks of the Palermo neighborhood, as I was trying to change currency. I did however take a tango lesson, which featured learning to breathe, never exhale, slide and point my toes, while totally ignoring the music that was playing. This was difficult, so I ended up just watching the teacher, then just over-analyzying and narrating the process when I actually had to try it. After my class, we stuck around and watched the next group, who had amazing teachers, that not once talked about breathing, but paying attention to the music. It was an experience people watching too, as there were some super serious couples working out more than just the step being taught. I have no photos of this, they weren't allowed.

Day 3 was all about the Palermo and Recoleta neighborhoods. Lots of parks, museums, and a very famous cemetary. I started the day heading for the Japanese Gardens, and what follows is some of what I saw:

Initially, I thought these next 3 photos were the Japanese Gardens, and I was disappointed; nothing really met any preconceived expectation:

 The problem was the map didn't tell me there was another park beside the real thing:

After the gardens, I made my way to MELBA (Buenos Aires Museum of Latin American Art). I really had no idea what to expect from anything in Buenos Aires, but this was probably one of my favorite stops. One of the collections was of the works by the Venezuelan born artist Carlos Cruz-Diez, titled "Color in Space and Time." It wasn't possible to rush through this exhibit. Most of his works forced you to look while moving, up-close and far away, and while standing still at various angles. There were even rooms where the spectator is able to physically move through the "color." I snapped a few photos before I was told "no photos:"

When I left the museum, I continued making my way past parks, working towards the Recoleta cemetary. The rest of these pictures are of what I saw along the way, and some from the cemetary:

A mural of Carlos Gardel, painted by Uruguayan artist
Carlos Páez Vilaró.

Recoleta Cemetary:

 The most famous site in the cemetary:

Monument/Plot of Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, President of Argentina from 1863-1874:

Not part of Sarmiento's or Evita's monument.

 A famous Argentine composer, Alberto Williams (listen to El rancho abandonado):

This was in the church next to the cemetary:

And now some of what I saw as I started back to the apartment:

The rest of the night was pretty chill, had some wine and schawarma, which is pretty much this:

though when you eat it, more like this:

Next day was Microcentro, a lot more walking around, more sensory overload. Way more people, much more commercial. I spent a lot of time just stopping to listen to various street musicians, and of course visited well-known historical sites/buildings. I made my way first to probably the most well-known musical landmark, Teatro Colón. Unfortunately, there was some serious event taking place, so there were no tours and it wasn't open to the general public. But I snapped photos from the plaza in front:

This photo really doesn't do it justice.

Leaving Teatro Colón, I headed for the Obelisk, and the most insane street I've ever had to cross. I should also mention, it was International Women's Day.

I left the obelisco and headed down Avenida Florida, with tons of vendors wanting me to buy leather jackets, change dinero, and see a tango show. I arrived at Parque (Plaza?) San Martín.

Left there, made my way back up Avenida Florida (to the same offers) to Plaza de Mayo. Certain parts of this trip were very serious. History is often these statues and monuments, but often down here (including Montevideo), you find yourself face-to-face with history you've only read about, and that in many ways is still being played out. In both Uruguay and Argentina, the most recent dark histories are with the dictatorships that took place in the 1970s through 80s. Plaza de Mayo was a part of this intense history, particularly the presence of Los Madres de la Plaza de Mayo. The following is a brief description of Los Madres and their place in Argentine history:

"During the Argentine dictatorship known as the Dirty War (1976-1983), thousands of people were systematically abducted by the government in order to eliminate all opposition to the regime. These "disappearances," which the dictatorship never admitted to committing, happened across class and age lines, but most of the kidnapped were young blue-collar workers and students. Despite the fact that associations and meetings of any kind were forbidden, a group of housewife mothers decided to protest the disappearance of their children. They began to gather every Thursday afternoon at the same time in the main square in Buenos Aires, Plaza de Mayo, walking alone or in pairs to avoid being arrested for disorderly conduct and wearing white kerchiefs on their heads to be easily identifiable. By showcasing their grief in public, the Madres turned their motherhood and their bodies into political tools to hold the government accountable for its actions." - Gilda Rodriquez, "Mothers Go Political: Los Madres de Plaza de Mayo."

Before leaving this area, and gradually working my way back home, I visited a photography exihibit just outside the Casa Rosada (the presidential palace). The photos were all by Victor Hugo Bugge, the official presidential photographer since 1978. Some were poignant, others puzzling...

Thursday night, I also had tacos...I must say Buenos Aires took care of some food cravings I've had for the past 7 months or so.

Anyway, after two fairly long days of touring around the city, mostly on foot, I spent my Friday enjoying an apartment with a television. I tried to go to the Xul Solar museum, but they didn't want to break my $100 bill (pesos), so I returned home, enjoyed some wine and cooking shows. Speaking of which, friends in Miami, please go try food from the Yellow Submarine food truck and tell me if it's as amazing as it looks. I had more Kentucky pizza that night, but also got to try maracuya, passion fruit, for the first time.

The initial reaction was that we're about to eat
something that looks like snot.

Quilmes and maracuya...the perfect pair?

So my camera was pretty much dead after that last photo, so I have no pics from my final day. Before heading back to Montevideo, we toured ESMA, one of the centers of dention, torture, and execution during the dictatorship. It was sobering to be in a place and think that humans could perform these types of horrifying acts; even sleep in the same building where someone else was being tortured/killed. Here's a short video I found for anyone interested in knowing more:

The final few hours were spent strolling through San Telmo, enjoying some empanadas, and ice cream (two scoops, Tiramisu and Dulce de Leche con Brownie).

We got back to Montevideo around 11:30pm, and were extremely aware of how empty the streets were. I'm hoping to return before this is all done, since I found out that Björk is bringing the Biophilia residency to Buenos Aires in April.