Under the Smiling Bust of Carlos Gardel (sin fedora)

First, sorry for the lack of photos, somewhere there are some excellent ones if they haven't been deleted. Second, for those of you wondering about the title: Carlos Gardel is one of the great singers and symbols of tango. His song, "Por una cabeza," is one of those pieces of music you know, even if you don't know you know. Today I visited the Barrio Sur, specifically calle Carlos Gardel.

Plaza Carlos Gardel

In 2008, Anthony Bourdain released an episode of No Reservations filmed in Uruguay. He closed the program featuring candombe, in particular the cuerda (drummers) of C-1080, whose name references the address of the demolished conventillo (housing complex) Medio Mundo, considered one of the important centers of Afro-Uruguayan culture and a birthplace of candombe. Bourdain's segment shows him enjoying chorizo and a local alchoholic beverage while watching the party. More generically, it shows a vision of a friendly neighborhood, united by the drum. His closing words for the scene: "You can walk anywhere you want. We could've just wandered in here without a film crew, without anyone, and had much the same experience I think...and it just happened cause we let it."

After today, I recognize the place Bourdain had his uniquely Uruguayan experience. Very close to Plaza Carlos Gardel, at the intersection of calle Carlos Gardel and Curuguaty. I'm also sure that Anthony and his hermano were there on a Sunday, and I'm writing this after my experience on a Tuesday. However, I think I can honestly let Mr. Bourdain know that it wouldn't have been the same experience without his film crew, or without anyone. Everyday in Barrio Sur is not a party, as was the case today, when I was robbed of my cash and camera under the smiling bust of Carlos Gardel, who without his trademark fedora, has probably witnessed this same scene far too many times. The three boys showed great pride and were all too happy to talk with me about their ability to play candombe, before questioning me about my interest in drugs (marijuana and cocaina to be exact), and finishing with "money o problema." He actually had to say this three times because with his rough, Uruguayan accent, I failed to understand "money," and once I did I responded: "Ahhh, dinero...claro. Un momento."

Now, if anyone's worried, I'm fine. I was aware of Montevideo's problem with petty street theft, and being the gringo that I am, expected to be robbed at some point. This is something that happens to the locals. I was a bit surprised it happened where it did, as Plaza Carlos Gardel is also the location of the Asociación Cultural C-1080. I was perhaps naive to think it would offer a certain amount of safety, since this is the first "specific objective" listed on their website: "Offer a permanent alternative to young people, who live near the heart of the city and are constantly tempted by drugs." On this day, the alternative was a central place to get some easy money for drugs.

Oh, and Anthony Bourdain (or Travel Channel), if you're reading, I'd like to borrow your film crew.