El río del candombe...

As I begin writing this, it's 10am (Aug. 8), and I'm sitting in my hotel room waiting to check-out and begin the move to my new place. A room in a shared apartment, near downtown Montevideo. It wasn't what I was hoping for, but will allow me to eat. It also places me in a better location to meet up with many of the comparsas I'm here to study.

I'm writing though, because I wanted to try and capture a little of my experiences yesterday before they fade. Victoria's father is sick, so she was unable to attend the feria, but I decided to check it out anyway. I walked up to Parque Rodo, where the closest one was happening. The street market was overwhelming. There were tents crammed together in three long rows, with vendors selling virtually anything you can imagine. If you've ever attended an L.A. or Orange County flea market, it was very similar, except much tighter, and at times claustrophobic.
However, the market itself wasn't the main attraction. As I was preparing to leave, I heard drums. TAMBORILES!! I probably looked like a complete lunatic as I weaved my way towards the sound. Everyone else was so calm! But at a small pond in the middle of the park was Laluma, Comparsa de Parque Rodo. Please understand, I've been waiting pretty much two years to see en vivo a tamboril uruguayo, so this was a pretty spectacular moment. I arrived as the comparsa was lining up to begin marching, but I could see the debris from the fire which had been used for tuning the heads. SO EXCITED!! Then they started playing, and were quickly stopped by their jefe (leader). After a few rounds of starting and stopping, they finally started moving through park, but I must admit, I was a little disappointed. This wasn't the candombe I've heard on recordings. Still, it was exciting to see in person for the first time. I think it's also important to recognize they different types of people involved with this group, and how it allows for community participation and pride.

After returning home, aside from finding a home, I basically spent the rest of the day waiting to meet Victoria to go see Sinfonia de Ansina. This group, I was told, is one of the best, and oh my god, words can't express what it felt like to walk up Calle Isla de Flores, and see the fire on the street, and hear the drums being tuned. People were coming in from every direction to see the cuerda's (drumline's) first rehearsal of the year. Everyone there had some sort of drink that they were more than happy to share with anyone, especially the drummers: wine in boxes, bottles in brown paper bags, and liter Coke bottles filled with what I'm guessing is 7 y 3 (Coke and wine). It was cool being with Victoria, as it seemed everyone knew "Pico," and she could explain to me a lot of what was happening. This entire time, the street is filling up and sections of the drumming ensemble are taking time to work their respective rhythms. Slowly the group came together, formed strict rows, and then...CANDOMBE!! I didn't expect it to start, but once it did, my entire core was grabbed by the bass of the piano drum, and all at once the entire street began to move. I can't explain this, it was like a wave, and then being caught in a current. I was finally able to get to my camera, and though it isn't the best video, in many ways it's appropriate to give an idea of exactly what I was experiencing.

Needless to say, I left elated, probably almost skipping to the bus stop. I didn't sleep much last night; some anxiousness about the apartment situation, but also the incessant borocotó of Ansina's rhythm still had its hold.