The official Desfile de Las Llamadas (Parade of the Drum Calls) is fast approaching in Montevideo. Traditionally, Mundo Afro opens the event. I was curious how this was organized, since things seem to have changed a lot in the last ten years, given the descriptions provided by George Reid Andrews in Blackness in the White Nation. This year, the group that will parade behind the flag of Mundo Afro is comprised of members of other comparsas from various locations throughout Montevideo, including members of the Taller de Percusión Huracán Buceo. The social dynamic in this group is obviously different from watching a group where everyone knows one another very well, and this is equally reflected in the toque (music). But for those who are participating, this is the path to participation in carnival's main event.
The photos and video are from the first rehearsal, taken on January 29.
Drums waiting to be played.
Tuning.
Chico with tacked head. Not common today.
Armando (organizing) the cuerda.
Some chicos:
Pianos with tacked heads.
Dos jefes? Guillermo Ceballos (l) of the Taller and
Alvaro Salas (r) of Mundo Afro.
Everyone I meet says the same thing when I tell them I'm in Montevideo for nine months with a Fulbright grant: "It's like you're pregnant." So I couldn't resist acknowledging the comparison. It's strange to think there are now less than three months remaining.
I'm playing catch-up with this post a little, and I guess the biggest happening was the Llamadas on the 6th of January. For me, it was much like the other events I've attended, perhaps a little less formal. But it was definitely not the spontaneous event described by so many of the older candomberos. I've talked about this in previous posts, so no need to rehash it all here, mainly because I'm not trying to be negative. I enjoy these events, but definitely tire of the politics that exist outside of the music.
I only took three videos, of groups that I find myself consistently examining: Sinfonia de Ansina, Cuerda de Ejido, and Zumbaé. The videos are in that order, and are all short and sweet.
While Zumbaé was passing, my camera decided to stop, but it caught a fantastic image when it did. It almost appears that one of the repique players was posing to show his hand bleeding:
Mostly I've been writing. Later this week, carnival officially kicks off, so I'm looking forward to seeing what happens in the month of February.
Earlier this past week, I did meet a former Fulbrighter from 1993. We shared experiences, and it was comforting to hear similar perceptions of the country, even though almost twenty years had passed since she was here. I did have an opportunity to introduce her to candombe, by attending a Cuerda de Ejido rehearsal. It made me aware of how much I hear now, and how much more there still is to learn. Mostly musical aspects; something I can't possibly accomplish in three more months.
Finally was able to play again yesterday. It was the first time the Taller de Percusión (the Huracánes) have met this year. We played on the beach at Playa Honda, in Malvín. The club wasn't open to get enough drums, so we had to all take turns. I'm sore a little today; it's the longest break I've actually taken from playing any type of drum since probably 1989. Figure some photos and video of Guillermo Ceballos (the jefe) and Leo Perez playing are nice ways to close this post out.
I was going to write a couple of days ago, but as I sat down at my computer, I heard a splash, followed by "es agua sucia" from the guitar player who regularly performs just outside my building. So I spent most of the final two days of 2011 watching what was basically a big water fight in Ciudad Vieja.
I love the sport coat and tie.
The streets were littered with the remnants of 2011 calendars.
Businesses tossed them out the windows along with the water.
On the 30th, most people getting splashed weren't so happy, but New Year's Eve was different. It was hot and the majority of those here were drunk on cider, and welcomed the "agua fria." There was plenty of candombe, and the same samba group from a previous post. I moved into 2012 with Pico and her family, though this time we were out in the country. It was amazing to see stars and hear crickets. Once again, there was lots of good food, though I didn't take as many photos this time. But here's a compilation video of some of the festivities; mostly involving people getting wet.
And finally some photos:
Prepping the parrilla.
We ate this little guy. He was good.
No idea what's really happening here beyond sparklers, but it
looks like some X-men madness is about to go down.
Obligatory fireworks.
In the dark this looked like
the beanstalk.
The frog that celebrated with us. I'm surprised
it wasn't on the menu.
